The earth is getting warmer. Whether we choose to accept it or deny it, whether we choose to change our behaviors or remain indifferent and powerless, we are making decisions that will determine the outcome of the global warming crisis.
The implications of global warming go beyond melting ice caps, drowning polar bears and encroaching coastlines. Most people understand that those effects are unwanted, but still feel far removed from them because they appear to be more relevant to “other” people, in some vague future. And while we deal plaintively with the skyrocketing costs of “peak oil,” mostly in terms of dollars, many of us fail to acknowledge the coming of “peak water” and other related crises.
The absence or contamination of water supplies, whether through agri-business (synthetic fertilizers and toxic pesticides), industry (pollution and illegal dumping), or poor land management (soil salinization) threatens many populations around the world with severe water shortages. These shortages claim lives everyday, just outside the limits of our collective attention span and media coverage. But lives lost to famine or drought are only one aspect of the problem. Dwindling resources cause death in more brutal ways, such as fatal conflicts over that scarcity. These scenarios are already playing out in developing countries, often woven into the fabric of tribal and ethnic rivalries.
If the ice caps soon melt, as climate scientists fear, what is to happen when advancing seas destroy entire coastal population centers worldwide? Aside from the huge, immediate economic and human toll, food and water resources are likely going to be stretched to the breaking point. As the displaced become environmental refugees, we’ll see the potential for deeper conflicts, even in developed countries.
How can any one person or family make a difference? It starts with “being the change.” From there we can be as silent or vocal about it as we choose. But the key is acting now. The voices for change are growing louder every day, and each day we can exercise our decision-making capabilities to create a more sustainable world. Eating locally is just one of many such choices. Add to that conservation and recycling, ethical purchase decisions, renewable energy, stewardship and respect for the environment and other human beings, and we have a potent formula for creating change in our communities.
At wecansolveit.org, Al Gore’s challenge of “100% renewable energy within 10 years” has been launched. The video of his speech references another great challenge in history: John F. Kennedy’s call to land a man on the moon within 10 years. That first challenge was a response to America’s Cold War fears of the Soviet Union’s advancements in the space race. America responded by meeting that challenge in just over 8 years.
Where we go from here is not up to the politicians or the scientists, or even the economy. It is up to each one of us. We can create the demand. We can ask the right questions. And we can step up today to solve this problem.
This is it. After a couple of months, this is the first tomato we’ve picked from our garden. Sure, we’ve added plants with ready-to-eat fruit on them: cayenne peppers, herbs, even a beautiful lime tree. But this tomato wasn’t there when this plant came into our backyard. And in the space of the last 6 weeks, it has grown. First a powder-green nub at the base of a drying flower. Then a miniature orb, skin stretched tight as it hung from the vine. Finally a ripe, red tomato. Delicious!
After 1,300 people have fallen ill due to the latest Salmonella outbreak, it looks like the smoking gun has turned up. Investigators found one jalapeno pepper in a Texas warehouse that tested positive for the bacteria. The jalapeno pepper is believed to have come from Mexico.
Chasing Unsafe Food
It’s been a long road to get to this point. Tomatoes, then jalapenos, serrano peppers and finally cilantro have all been suspected, causing huge financial losses, especially for tomato growers. The long delays have shaken consumer confidence and challenged our nation’s perception of food safety. As state health departments, the Centers for Disease Control and the FDA sought out the source of the problem, they were hampered by many obstacles. Among the difficulties, ill patients didn’t always remember meals they’d consumed and questionnaires used in patient interviews didn’t include specific references to jalapeno peppers.
The produce marketing industry is starting to evaluate implementing a better tracking system to trace produce as it enters the national food supply. Even the FDA is being forced to review its own practices in conducting such an investigation. Improvements in both of these areas are positive, but are only aimed at identifying the origin and limiting the extent of future outbreaks. A future outbreak can still spread rapidly, carried through the national food supply and distribution system. While Salmonella can originate just as easily from contaminated crops on a small, local farm, it is clear that the area of influence would be much more limited.
True Food Safety
Like many other locavores before me, I have discovered that food quality and food safety are integral parts of a covenant between the small, local farmer and consumer. How can they not be? In most cases, these farmers are eating from the same harvest. Most likely, they sell their products face-to-face at markets, CSAs or farm stands. And they are counting on every customer to return the following week. When consumers know where their food is coming from, a genuine foundation of mutual trust and respect is spawned.
When we started eating local, we went to every stand at farmers’ markets, asking a battery of questions regarding how the food was grown, what farming methods were used, if animals were being treated humanely, what they were being fed, etc. We even went so far as to ask about the processing facilities that were being used, so that we would be able to make ethical food decisions based on the information we had. We were happy to find many farmers who believed in the same philosophies and ideals that we believe in and we purchased from them consistently.
And just when I thought I had local eating down to a “T”, I was thrown another curve ball.
Two weeks ago at the market, I was dumbstruck to learn that the family farm that was supplying us with free range, pasture eggs was using GMO corn (corn that has been genetically modified) in their chicken feed. Our egg vendor explained that the supply of organic grains in the area is very low and the prices had skyrocketed so much that he was no longer able to afford non-GMO grains. Even though he operated his own mill, he lamented that his only alternative was to use what everyone else is using: genetically modified corn. That made me wonder if the chicken we’ve been eating for the last two months had been raised on the same feed. What a nightmare!
I felt angry, not at him, but at the multinational biotechnology firms who have transformed the agricultural landscape, crowding out organic and sustainable production in favor of a monoculture of genetically modified crops. This system is notorious for rapidly depleting the land of its nutrients, contaminating all natural resources with pesticides and herbicides. The result is toxic waste that ends up on our plates whether we paid for it or not.
The shortage of farms growing non-GMO grains for animal feed puts a strain on the supply chain. As a result prices go up, our farmers cannot afford the grains, and the end products become so expensive that consumers are reluctant to pay the premium. What is wrong with this picture? Shouldn’t we be able to afford healthier, ethically grown food and products?
All of these questions and more were floating in my head as the farmer asked me if I still wanted to buy his eggs. Adrian looked at me, trying to read my mind. Without hesitation, he told him that we appreciated his honesty (signs were posted at his stall informing customers of the change in feed), but that our family had committed to buying only ethically grown produce and sustainable products.
We immediately went to our chicken producer, asking him the same questions. He was surprised. Another family had already expressed the same concerns. He promised to call the feed mill and get some answers.
After getting home, I immediately logged into an online discussion group and posted my query: “Looking for organic, free-range, pasture chicken eggs in Houston.” Within a day, I had a response from David Crank of Oaks of Mamre Farm. He informed us that by his estimate, 99% of area farmers were indeed using GMO corn due to the availability and cost issues. However, David mentioned that even though his feed “is not certified organic, it is made up of non-GMO transitional grains, custom mixed and shipped down from Ohio”. He even added, “...these chickens are truly raised out on pasture getting plenty of sunshine, fresh air, exercise, and their fair share of grass and bugs.” The only inconvenience was that we would have to pick up the eggs directly from his farm in Hempstead. Or, we could visit Home Sweet Farm’s “Market Days” every 3rd Sunday of the month in Brenham. It is a long way from home, but worth the effort to avoid genetically modified food.
Like me, there are others who will not stop until their questions are clearly answered. We will persist until we find solutions to the problems we face, even when they seem out of hand or unreachable.
I can confidently state that I will not feed my family anything but the freshest, most nutritional food available. To accomplish my goal, I am forming liaisons with farmers. I will travel great distances if necessary. I will hunt if that’s what it takes, but I will not allow big corporations to dictate what is served on my dinner table.
This past Friday, Maggie and I celebrated our 10th anniversary. Given the restriction of eating locally, both of us had our minds set on a delicious, home-cooked meal, which we’d prepare and enjoy as a family, as we have since starting 100 Mile Harvest. As the week went on, we gauged the ingredients in our refrigerator, knowing that our options were more limited with each passing day, but that was alright. We could still count on a trio of steaks, salad ingredients, and of course, the bottle of champagne that had survived the arrival of the New Year, standing triumphantly on the last shelf.
On Thursday morning, I drove to a meeting, my mind registering all the restaurants that lined the highway. As I passed each chain food establishment, I imagined the supplier infrastructure that supported it – from huge conventional farms and animal feed lots, to the ubiquitous Sysco trucks that are nothing less than the life-line for those eateries. I passed local, non-chain restaurants and realized they were probably no different; the unique ethnic restaurants whizzing by were likely supplied by industrial giants, even when the fare they produce seems to deserve something more exotic. A homemade meal would be a beautiful thing indeed.
Then my thoughts were broken by a sudden recollection. A couple of years ago, we had heard some great things about t’afia restaurant, located near downtown Houston. I didn’t know much about t’afia, except that owner/chef Monica Pope had been named a 2007 James Beard Award Nominee (Best Chef/Southwest), and that she was a proponent of local food. Monica even started the Midtown Farmers’ Market at t’afia as a way of creating opportunity and visibility for local farmers, some of whom supply the restaurant with the local raw ingredients that go into each meal.
I realized I had to call t’afia. I was fairly certain that once I asked how local their menu was, I’d learn that the truly local items were few and far between. Or that business imperatives like predictability, profit margins (or even customer expectations) would dictate a compromise that we weren’t willing to make.
I talked to the hostess, telling her about our 100 mile diet, and expected a quick and polite, “Sorry.” However, she quickly answered that the restaurant offers a five-course local tasting menu. How local? She offered to check for me. A short pause later, I was speaking to Tino, who calculated that 80-90% of the day’s menu would be from within 100 miles. However, since we were considering going the next day, he offered to have Chef Monica call me that afternoon.
I hadn’t expected to get this far, much less to receive a call from an internationally recognized chef.
A couple of hours later, Chef Monica called me. Tino had already explained our situation to her, and she invited us to come in. She would spend some time Friday morning locating ingredients and would accommodate our 100 mile diet by improvising the local tasting menu. I made a reservation for the three of us.
All Things Local
On Friday, we were all more than a little excited. It was more than just having an evening out together and escaping kitchen duties. We also knew that with a tasting menu, we’d be at the mercy of the chef, and that each course would produce a new taste experience. We arrived at t’afia and were led to our table. Samantha brought menus for our reference, but let us know that Chef Monica was going to be preparing our meal a little differently.
From the first course to the last, we were delighted by the innovative flavors and textures. The three of us received different dishes at each course, offering an opportunity to taste a wide range of items. An inspired potato-leek soup had Katerina glowing through each creamy spoonful. The Texas cross quail was delicately seasoned and roasted to perfection. A dish of cremini mushrooms lept off the plate as we discovered their savory taste. Glazed red potatoes seduced us with a balanced sweetness that lingered for just a moment before giving way to the smokiness of bacon. And finally, a muscadine grape gelato delivered a sweet and tangy conclusion. Every dish had us returning to the menu that had been left on our table, to figure out what made it tick. We smiled when we saw that some menu items carry the name of the producers who supply key ingredients: “pure luck del cielo” and “jolie vue pork,” for example.
Just as we had learned in our own kitchen, Chef Monica was demonstrating day in and day out that even a restaurant can thrive when relying exclusively on seasonal, local ingredients. Moments after the last course arrived at our table, she stopped by to visit with us.
As we were leaving, she offered to show us the kitchen. We stepped through the doors into a space that, to our untrained eyes, seemed almost too small to produce the diverse menu we had just experienced. But it seemed perfect. After all, it was a reminder of just how much a chef can accomplish even when the ingredients are “limited” to those from a small area, closest to home.
It takes passion and confidence to commit to what the local growing season offers. And in that commitment, a pioneering mindset and knack for innovation are required. But Chef Monica has rightfully earned that distinction. T’afia’s slogan, articulated so succinctly, is “Eat Where Your Food LivesTM.” Yes, it’s a calling to those of us who have become conscious of our food and its resulting impact on the environment. But for anyone, it’s also just an invitation to enjoy a great meal.
And for those keeping score, our bottle of champagne is still intact, waiting for another celebration…
I just returned from my trip to Seattle with my grandparents. I had lots of fun. On our first day we went to Gas Works Park and Green Lake Park. We all enjoyed walking around and taking in the sights. The next day we visited the Woodland Park Zoo were we got to see a baby gorilla, giraffes, elephants and let’s not forget the cute little pony at the petting zoo.
The next morning we woke up and went to Pike’s Place, a gigantic market. I wish we had one like that in Houston. There I saw how the fishermen were throwing fish up in the air every time they made a sale. That was fun to watch. I saw a fish as big as me. I also picked up some local vinegar and olive oil for us, as well as some Bing and Rainier cherries to enjoy at home. I was so happy to find these things for my parents.
From July 4th to 6th, we traveled to Victoria. That was my first time on a ferry and we even got to drive the car onto the boat. Canada was beautiful.
Back in Washington, we went to Olympic National Park, where I touched snow for the very first time. I also threw a huge snowball at my grandfather. They also took me to see the salmon swim up the “fish ladder” at Washington Ship Channel.
On our last day we went to the Seattle Space Needle, which was very tall.
I was sad when we had to leave and I can’t wait to come back and show my parents around.
This week, the outbreak of infections caused by the Salmonella Saintpaul bacteria surpassed 1,000 confirmed cases, making it the largest food-borne outbreak in over 10 years. Cases have been reported since April, and though public alarm has led to additional vigilance and scrutiny, more cases are being reported daily. According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), symptoms include diarrhea, fever and abdominal cramps, usually within 12-72 hours after infection. Illness typically lasts 4-7 days and can be overcome by most people without treatment. However, infants, the elderly and those with impaired immune systems are susceptible to severe infections that can be fatal if left untreated.
The large number of cases and geographical distribution (at least 42 states and Canada) have challenged federal and state investigators, who have not been able to pinpoint a source for the contamination since the the first cases were reported in April. Initial studies identified raw tomatoes as the culprit, leading to massive losses for tomato farmers who could not sell their crops. Estimated losses exceed US$100 million. Although tomatoes from many regions around the nation have been deemed safe to eat, consumers are wary. The recent addition of cilantro and jalapeno and serrano peppers as suspect foods has only added to the confusion.
The CDC website includes a diagram mapping reported cases, and a FAQ, but another piece of data stands out: the Sample of an Outbreak Traceback Investigation Diagram (PDF).
Though this document is labeled a sample, a quick review of the flowchart begins to reveal the scale of the investigation underway, as well as the challenges involved. From point of service (supermarket or food establishment) investigators must follow the chain of supplier(s), distributor(s), importers and grower(s) along all food routes. Further complicating matters, national distributors also commonly mix produce from many sources, so it may be impossible to draw a clear path to the farm or even region of origin. As the diagram also illustrates, the contaminated food may have entered the food supply at any of points where “grower” is indicated, and neither domestic nor international sources can be ruled out.
Restoring Consumer Confidence
I’ve spoken with people who are still fearful or very concerned about consuming tomatoes, either store-bought or as an ingredient in restaurant meals. It’s understandable given the media climate, but there are some simple lessons I’d like to share:
Clearly, bigger is not better. The scope of this outbreak is huge. That means two things: industrial farming and national distribution. Most people today are out of touch with where their food comes from, how it is grown, or even if it is “in season.” This disconnect has grown progressively, first through urbanization, and then through global outsourcing. As a result, most shoppers toss fruits and vegetables into their carts with no thought whatsoever about the life of that item before it was unpacked from a cardboard box. This knowledge may seem irrelevant to many, but the outbreak we are witnessing can be seen as a sign of dysfunction – a reminder that even our public health professionals can’t easily navigate the supply chain. That lack of transparency should be alarming to anyone concerned about health and wellness.
Trust someone. Unfortunately, while industrial farming provides the majority of calories consumed by Americans, our food transactions happen anonymously. We have supermarket pledges of freshness, but little else. So who can you trust? Visit a local farmers’ market or farm stand and spend a few minutes talking to the growers. You’ll quickly realize that there is a person, after all, behind your food. A person whose beliefs and values are strongly rooted in the cultivation of healthy food for customers who will be back week after week. You are sure to find a vendor (or many) that not only earns your business, but also earns your trust.
Put your money where your mouth is. Spinach, tomatoes, peppers… before we know it, another e. coli or salmonella outbreak will cause agricultural losses and possibly claim human lives. Make the decision now to buy local food and remove yourself (and your family) from the industrial food system.
Need more reasons?
You’ll find fresher food at its nutritional peak.
You’ll build community (dollars you spend locally stay in your city, support your school districts and strengthen the local job market).
You’ll drastically reduce food-miles…food no longer has to be transported over long distances, reducing fuel usage and CO2 emissions.
Hopefully, the salmonella outbreak will soon pass. However, the opportunities outlined above will still be there – opportunities for turning everyday food transactions into significant, pro-active social actions. On this site you’ll find many local food resources for making the leap, and you are invited to comment and share your own experiences.
Last Saturday vendors in the market were asking for Katerina. My co-workers missed having her around and we are anxiously waiting to have her back home.
Katerina went on a trip to Seattle with her grandparents, to visit her aunt Claudia who is going to school there. They had a jam-packed week. Among their stops were Pike’s Market, Ballards Locks, Lake Washington, the Washington ship channel and a weekend in Victoria. Let’s not forget the Seattle Zoo, which is just across the street from where they are staying.
Before Katerina left we gave Adrian’s parents recommendations on how to select her food, preferably local or unprocessed. By visiting farmers markets they have been able to find a variety of seasonal foods not available here in Houston. She called us today, excitedly announcing that she is coming back with cherries and other surprises.
Here at home we will have surprises of our own waiting for her.
100 Mile Harvest is our family's personal journey into local eating for sustainability. It will connect us to the earth and seasons, the local sources of our food and the extraordinary people who produce it. This is our world within a 100 mile radius. Join us in shaping the future of food.